A set square is a triangle shaped tool with marked angles. It gives true right-angles. A set square is useful for drawing lines at right-angles and for finding the bias grain (Any grain or line that falls between the straight and cross grain of a fabric).
A Zip is a commonly used device for binding the edges of an opening of fabric, bag, shoe and so on. The device was patented in 1893 by Witcomb B Judson, and he called it a 'clasp locker'. This design was improved by Gideon Sundback and applied it for sleeping bags, gloves, corsets, money belts, tobacco pouches etc. Goodrich used it in Zipper boots. By the 1930's "zipper" became a generic term applied to any toothed, slide fastener. Whatever the zip is, its weight (determined by its tape and structure weather coil or chain) should be compatible with that of the garment fabric.
A coil zip is a continuous synthetic strand made up of polyester or nylon twisted into a spiral and attached to a woven or knit synthetic tape. The coil zip is lightweight and more flexible and hence it is suitable for lightweight to medium fabrics.
A chain zip consists of individual teeth, generally metal attached to a cotton-blend or cotton tape. Chains are slightly more rigid and are suitable for medium to heavy fabrics as they can cause buckling on light weight fabrics.
Zips are of three basic types:
Conventional Zips are either chain or coil, are open at the top and are held together at the bottom. They are available in many different styles then any zip types. Used for necklines, dresses, skirts, trousers, jeans etc.
Concealed Zips are built differently from other zippers and are inserted in a special way so that they disappear into a seam (neither the zip coil nor the stitching is visible on the outside). These types of zippers are mainly used in dresses and skirts.
Open-End Zips open at both top and bottom, allowing the zip opening to separate completely. These are ideal for completely front opened apparels like jackets and cardigans.
Hook and Eye fasteners consists of a small metal hook, and its corresponding loop called the eye. They come in either loop eyes for meeting edges or straight eyes for lapped edges. They are also available in a variety of sizes from very small (0) to very large (4) in nickel or black-enamel finish. A hook and eye tape comes with medium hooks and eyes attached to a cotton tape which allows multiple hook and eye application at one time and is sold by meter. The hook and eyes serve as effective fasteners for garments such as skirts, lingerie, dress, pants, neck openings etc.
Waistband Hook and Eye
The waistband hook and eyes are sturdy in nature suitable for waistbands on trousers, skirts etc. The effective design keeps the hook from slipping off straight eye and are available in nickel or black finish.
The notcher is a common precision tool with a cutting blade that slips into the edge of the pattern, leaving about 1/4 -inch U shape cut-out (notch). The notches are then marked on the fabric and the cutter slashes the fabric at these points. Finally, the garment parts are assembled and stitched following the notches. The notcher is made of good quality metal for long performance and consists of spring action handle.
The notches in the pattern is used to indicate seam allowances, centre lines, identifying face up or down of the fabric, align pattern pieces, dart intake, extended shoulder tip, zipper stopping point, fold back of facings and hem, insert placement, tension release in acute curves, inverted corners etc., thus acting as an instruction guide for seamstress sewing the pattern.
A bodkin is a tool, which is shaped like a thick blunt needle and is used for threading elastic, ribbon, cord etc. through a casing. It can also be used to turn the bias tubing right side out. There are many types of bodkins, some are self-locking (slide to lock tweezer type) and some are needle like with an eye through which threading is done.
French curves are templates made from plastic, metal or wood used in manual drafting and to draw smooth curves of various radii in Fashion Designing. It comes in handy for pattern adjustment and common fitting. It is mainly used in measuring armhole, neckline, sleeve caps, pocket contours etc.
The nylon tape is composed of two stripes, one with the looped and other with the tiny, hooked surface. When pressed together the surfaces grip together and bind temporarily until they are pulled apart.
They are used for securing things and the tapes can be cut to one's needs. The tape comes in sew-on, stick-on and iron-on forms. It can be used to replace zippers and buttons, in detachable trims, upholstery, pillow covers etc.
When sewing is not an option or it's hard to sew, a good quality fabric glue can be used and is just as effective as sewing.
Fabric glues form a clear permanent bond, and the fabric can be washed as norm.
Buttons are tiny and usually disc shaped structures used as a fastener or for decoration in clothing. It can be made of any material such as plastic, metal, wood, shell, resin etc.
There are basically two types of buttons, they are sew-through and shank button.
Shank buttons have a solid top layer and a shank beneath it to attach to the fabric.
Sew-through buttons have holes in them either two or four through which the button is sewn into fabric.
Jeans buttons also called as rivets have two separate parts a pin position and a button top which are not sewn into the fabric but are positioned and then hammered together. A buttonhole for it is then created by hand or machine.
Self-covered buttons are covered with the fabric usually the same fabric as that of the main body of the garment.
Dressmaker carbon paper are used to quickly transfer the markings from the pattern on to the fabric and in needle craft designs. The ink is usually permanent, so it is important to transfer the pattern to the wrong side of the fabric. They are available in different colors.
Slide the carbon paper face down to the fabric and in between the fabric and the pattern and trace with the help of the tracing wheel. It is largely used in sewing to transfer darts, tucks, pocket, pleats, placement lines etc.
The Embroidery hoops must have tool for embroider. It consists of a pair of rings. The larger ring consists of a tightening device, a metal or plastic headed screw. They are made of wood or plastic and are available in various shapes such as circular, oval, square, triangle etc.
The hoops help to adjust the level of tension of your fabric and helps to stabilize your work. It is important to choose a hoop that is a little larger than your design. Most frequently used sizes range from 6 to 14 inches. Besides embroidery it is also used for painting the fabric and in home decoration.
To use it, separate the two loops by loosening the screw, place the fabric of interest on smaller loop. Then place the outer loop aligning the screw to reach desired tension on the fabric.
A Hole punch also known as punch plier the tool is used for making or punching neat round holes. It comes with various sized revolving hole-cutter attachments and a comfort handle grip. It is simple to use, choose the desired size by rotating the wheel, align your material of interest and squeeze.
It is used to cut holes in fabric for eyelets (grommets) or popper snaps, belts, watch bands, shoes, canvas, vinyl, rubber and so on. It is perfect tool for leather work, simple repair and crafts.
The Sewing Pattern acts as a template from which parts of your clothing is traced on to the fabric. Normally they are prepared out of paper or cardboard.
Ready patterns available in market makes sewing easy and are available in range of sizes (xs - xxl) on the clothing of interest such as blouses, tops, skirts, night pants etc.
Awl is a sharp, small, pointed tool used for piercing holes. It suitable for making holes in fabric and leather, for attaching rivets, eyelets or buttonholes. They are widely used by shoemakers and craftsmen.
It is very simple to use and comfortable on hand. Many variations are available. Some have an eye at the pointed end which helps in drawing the thread through the holes for performing manual lock stitch sewing especially for leather and in this case called a sewing awl. It should always be kept covered for safety purposes.
The Paper Scissors have thin sharp blades for cutting and stable handles to hold for control. They are used to cut pattern paper, paper designs in crafting and should not be used for fabric.
The Spring Action Shear is made of stainless-steel blades and bent handle design for precise cut. The spring-loaded mechanism opens blades after every cut minimizing the hand fatigue and makes the cutting easier.
It is ideal for cutting an array of materials such as denim, silk, vinyl, leather and multiple layers of fabric. The lock system keeps the blade closed for safe storage.
Embroidery scissors are made of good quality stainless steel with thin, sharp matching blades and pointed edges. The sizes range from 3 to 5 inch. The embroidery scissors are perfect for cutting small areas of fabric where high precision is needed. They are useful for trimming threads, general needle work, embroidery, unpicking, making buttonholes etc. It is also available in various vintage designs (stork, grass, flower, leaf, butterfly, guitar, blossom etc.) which gives a stylish and elegant look to the scissors.
The Pinking shear cuts a zig-zag pattern as they have a saw-toothed blade instead of straight. The blades are made of stainless steel for long cutting life. They are available in lengths of 16 and 19 cm.
They are excellent for finishing raw edges and seams as it creates a fray resistant edge. They can be used for fabrics, linings, silk, leather etc. to reduce fraying and also for decorative purposes.
They are useful in nipping excess thread, making buttonholes, in embroidery and general utility and is budget friendly.
The Dressmaker Shears are the best shears for cutting the fabric. A typical one has a one bent-angle and one straight blade. To hold, it has a round thumbhole and an irregular oval finger hole. They are available in several lengths out if it 7-, 8- and 10-inch ones are used most commonly.
The bent angle of the bottom blade lets the fabric lie flat on the table and prevents you from lifting the fabric as off the table as you cut through and ensures a more accurate cut. Good quality shears are made of high-quality steel and lasts for a long time. Cutting paper can blunt them and should only be used to cut fabrics. Both left- and right-hand models are available.
