Open Chain Stitch

The Open Chain Stitch is also known as Ladder Stitch, Square Stitch or Roman Chain Stitch. It is used in hand embroidery to outline straight and wavy lines as well as various shapes such as circles. The look of the stitch can be changed by varying the distance between each stitch either by spacing them closely or widely.

Work the Open Chain Stitch between equally spaced dots on two parallel lines with the help of stitch card or other. 

Come up at 'a' and go down at 'b' then angle the needle at 'c' on the lower line over the working thread. Before tightening the loop completely, place your needle at 'd' and pull through. 

Continue the pattern and at the end of the stitch anchor the loop at both at lower and upper end.

 

Backstitched Chain

First work a base of Chain stitch. Then add a line of Backstitch on the top of the row of chain for additional detail and color.

Chain Stitch

Chain stitch is an easy stitch which finds its application in various purposes such as bordering lines and shapes, lettering and filling in larger spaces. Chain stitch is also called Tambour Stitch or Point De Chainette and has many variations.

Bring the needle up at 'a' form a thread loop and go back down at 'a'.

Come up at 'b' placing the needle's point over the thread as you pull through to form a loop.

For the next loop, insert the needle at 'b' inside the first loop and bring up the needle at 'c' placing the needle's point over the thread as you pull through to form the second loop.

Continue the pattern with uniform spacing until the end of the row.

                                                       

                                                        

Medici Collar

The Medici collar is a large, high standing, fan shaped collar generally composed of lace, net, embroidered satin or any light material which is wired to stand up in the back and sloping to join a decolletage (usually a low square neckline) in the front. The Medici collar provided a large frame at the back and around the sides of women's head. It was worn by Marie De Medici, second wife of Henry IV of France and was much popular among the wealthy in the 16th century. The collar was revived and given this name in the 19th century.

Mandarin Collar

Mandarin collar is a small, stand-up collar that extends up on neck (about 3-4 cm) and not quite meeting at the center front. It is also called Chinese Collar or Nehru Collar. The collar can be done close-fitting or away from the neck. It can be blunted, curved, pointed or extended that can be turned down to form lapels.

Empire Line Silhouette

Any modern dress consisting of high waistline located just under the bosom. The waistline is characterized by an inserted piece of fabric or a seam. This style is derived from First Empire period in France (1804-1815) under the rule of Napolean Bonaparte. Other Characteristics of the silhouette includes low-cut neckline at the front and back, long and straight skirt.

Stem Stitch

Stem stitch is one of the easiest stitches used for outlines.

Start at 'a' then insert the needle at 'b' and bring the needle up in the centre at 'c'.

Insert the needle at 'd' and bring it up at the end of the previous stitch thst is 'b'.

Continue the pattern to make a row of overlapping stitches.

(Variation - the stitches are worked at an angle to produce more rope like effect).

                                                    

                                          

                                                                                                                 

                 
                                                  

Whipped Running Stitch

First work a base of closely spaced running stitch.

Next bring the second thread up at 'a' and slide the needle under the next stitch from right to left and pull through carefully.

 Continue whipping till the end.

                                                          

                                                                      

   

                                                           

Bow Tie Collar

A bow tie collar consists of flat, stand-up band with elongated ends that is sewn to the neckline. The ends tie in a bow (a knot, that usually consists of two loops and two ends) in front. This collar became popular in the 1920s and continued as fashion ever since.

H-line Silhouette

The H-line is a straight silhouette or dress resembling the alphabet 'H' as the garment goes straight from shoulder to hip marked by a low horizontal belt, cuff or seam at the waist. It was called H by designer Christian Dior in 1954.

Bertha Collar

The bertha collar resembles a cape or cloak falling over shoulders and bodice of the dress. This collar is usually round and flat encircling the décolleté. The bertha collar is made of thin fabrics (not appropriate for heavy fabrics as the collar is bulky). The collar became fashion in 1930's and became increasingly popular during 1980's.                      

L -line or Column Silhouette

The L-line or column silhouette is a fine gown that best fits a thin or slender body. The dress belonging to this group or silhouette has same measurement for bust, waist and hem and hence appears rectangle in shape. A shift dress belongs to this silhouette flows straight down the body in one straight line (without any flare) and conceal the body shape. This silhouette is also ideal for a person with thick waist and broad hips as it helps to hide these flaws very easily. This silhouette is made with well drape able light fabrics.

Notcher

The notcher is a common precision tool with a cutting blade that slips into the edge of the pattern, leaving about 1/4 -inch U shape cut-out (notch). The notches are then marked on the fabric and the cutter slashes the fabric at these points. Finally, the garment parts are assembled and stitched following the notches. The notcher is made of good quality metal for long performance and consists of spring action handle.

The notches in the pattern is used to indicate seam allowances, centre lines, identifying face up or down of the fabric, align pattern pieces, dart intake, extended shoulder tip, zipper stopping point, fold back of facings and hem, insert placement, tension release in acute curves, inverted corners etc., thus acting as an instruction guide for seamstress sewing the pattern.

                                                a and b notches

V-Line Silhouette

The V-line silhouette or style is characterized by broad shoulders tapering towards the bottom (at the hem) without any emphasis on the waist.

                  

Pierrot Collar

The pierrot collar is a small round collar made of ruffs (cloth frills) or double ruffle. This collar is derived from the costume of the comedy character in French theaters called pierrot (little peter).

Overhand Stitch

The overhand stitches are tiny, even stitches widely used to hold together two finished edges (for example, these are very useful for attaching a ribbon or lace to the finished edge of the garment).

The needle is inserted from the back edge through to the front edge diagonally, picking up only one thread each time. Every time diagonal stitches are taken over the edge maintaining the uniform spacing.     

                                                                                                                                      

Templates

 

Sailor's Collar

The sailor's collar is a flap collar which is recognized by its wide lapels forming a V shape in front and with square panel at the back. Traditionally it is used on sailor's uniform. A typical one has two bands of soutache braid sewn around the edges and having two stars at the back corners. It is also called Middy collar and became a popular style for middy dresses and children's dress

Puritan Collar

The Puritan collar consists of square-cut, wide and flat flaps in the front and back that extends to the shoulder seam. This collar is derived from English protestants of late sixteenth and seventeenth century. The early Englishmen carried the collar to America where it was identified with the Puritans and early Americans. This style is often seen in dresses and blouses.

A-Line Silhouette

 A-line is the most popular type of silhouette which is fitted at the top (shoulders or waist) and then gradually flares or gets wider towards the hem. The term A-line was first coined by Christian Dior in 1955 to describe the shape of his spring collection of clothing that resembled the shape of capital letter A.

 The A-line silhouette emphasizes a small waist as different silhouettes emphasizes different body shapes or parts. A-line dresses can be of any length ranging from full skirt to ending at knee. This silhouette can be off shoulder, sleeveless, short or long sleeve and with any kind of neckline. The A-line silhouette is most widely used in everyday outfits and wedding dresses.

                               

Silhouette

 A Silhouette is the most prominent visual element of the garment that is the general outline or shape of the garment.

Silhouette are shown in solid black on a white background and is named after French Author Etienne de Silhouette who first made the drawings in black with no background details.

The side seam, waistline, shoulder line, hem line all work together to create a dominant shape called the silhouette. A silhouette can be changed by moving the waistline, narrowing or widening (shoulders, sleeve or legs), adding fabrics, padding different parts of the body or corseting waist or bust to create illusion.

There are basically seven types of silhouettes (dresses)

Shawl Collar

A Shawl collar is a type of collar that follows the front opening of the clothing. It does not have separate lapels and is made in one piece forming shawl over the shoulder or with seam in center back. The length of the collar varies and sometimes can be extended to waistline with V-neck in front. It is the most popular and widely used collar found on coats, sweaters, dresses, tuxedos etc.

Bodkin

 A bodkin is a tool, which is shaped like a thick blunt needle and is used for threading elastic, ribbon, cord etc. through a casing. It can also be used to turn the bias tubing right side out. There are many types of bodkins, some are self-locking (slide to lock tweezer type) and some are needle like with an eye through which threading is done.

Peter Pan Collar

The Peter Pan collar is a flat collar with rounded ends in the front. It is composed of two separate collar units, one attached to the left-hand portion of the neck and the other to the right-hand portion of the neck. The collar is named Peter Pan after the costume of Maude Adam, who starred in the play Peter and Adam in the year 1905. This style is mainly associated with children's wear and was gradually adopted by women.

Banded Collar

A band collar is a narrow band (about 1 inch) shaped collar that stands up encircling the neck and closes with buttons at front or back. It is also called stand up collar or kurta collar. This type of collar is frequently seen in front open garments. This collar is always interfaced to reinforce the shape of the collar and to maintain its original look after washing.

Collars

A collar is attached to the neckline of a garment and is important because it enhances the garments appearance and frames the face. Collars are made of two layers of fabric. The proportion of the collar is very essential (big or small, high or low).

All collars basically fall into one of the three types:

Flat Collar: The flat collar emerges from the seamline of the neck and lies flat against the garment (ex. Peter Pan).

Rolled Collar: The rolled collar first stands up from the edge of the neck and then falls down to rest on the garment. (ex. shirt).

Standing Collar: The standing collar extends above the neck seamline of the garment as a band and in some cases folds back down onto itself.

Factors influencing the collar design include: pattern, color and texture of the fabric, use and purpose of the garment, age and sex of the person wearing the garment and also the appearance of the person (shape of face neck size etc.).

 

Bucket pocket

A bucket pocket is a large patch pocket with a flared top similar to cowl neck. It can hold a lot of items like a bucket.

Denim Pocket

Denim pocket is a patch pocket made from denim fabric and has unique double line or twin stitching.

Western Pocket

 A bound pocket that consists of an angled flap like an arrowhead used on shirts and dresses which echos the western or cowboy look.