Textile Fibers

Fibers are fine hair-like substances used for spinning yarns to make textiles. The fibers are the fundamental building blocks or basic components of textile fabrics which can be twisted into yarns and the woven into fabric. A staple fiber is usually much longer than it is thick. Most textile fibers range in length from about 15mm to 500 mm and the thickness ranges from about 10μm to 50μm.

Fibers can be classified into:

Natural Fibers - are the fibers that are derived from plants, animals or produced by geological processes (from minerals ex. asbestos). They have high absorbency and porosity which makes them responsive to changes in temperature and humidity and comfortable to wear in a variety of conditions. Example: cotton, coir, flax, jute etc.

Man-Made Fibers - refers to fibers which are not found naturally. It may be synthetic fibers, which are entirely man made from chemicals (nylon, acrylic) or fibers which are produced in the laboratory from cellulose, a natural product (rayon, acetate). They have low porosity and absorbency which makes them uncomfortable during hot and humid climatic conditions.

Fiber Blends are combinations of two or more different fibers.

To be a textile fiber, it must possess some fundamental properties such as fibrous structure, length to width ratio, strength, elasticity, spinning power, flexibility, durability and should be economical.

                       

Natural Cellulosic Fibers

Abaca

Abaca also called as Manila Hemp is a species of banana native to Philippines. Abaca is one of the strongest natural fibers obtained from the leaf stalks of the plant. The plant has a great economic value for its fiber properties such as strength, flexibility, buoyancy, biodegradability, resistance to saltwater damage and also forms a cheaper option to other alternatives. The fibers are raw materials for textile manufacturing (abaca cloth) and are also used to make ropes, fishing lines, paper, curtains, nets, bags and other fashion accessories.

Coir

Coir is the natural fiber extracted from the layer found in between the hard internal shell and the outer coat of the coconut. It is also popularly known as "Golden Fiber" due to its color after removing and cleaning from coconut husk. The fiber has two varieties, The White Coir which comes from Un ripened green coconuts and is more flexible and Brown Coir comes from the mature coconuts, which is dark in color and very strong. Due to the rough and coarse nature of the coir fabric it is not suitable to make clothing but combining it with polyester makes it more flexible and can be used in the production of clothing. The clothing of this combination from UV rays of the sun and overheating. Due to its versatile nature, it has many applications in landscaping, gardening, coir ply, mats, brushes, mattresses, ropes, nets, brooms etc.

 Flax

The flax fiber is a natural, cellulosic, multi-cellular, bast (as it comes from the inner bark of the stem) fiber. It is the oldest textile fiber with a subdued lusture, that is long regular fiber surface with a film of wax. The word flax is derived from the old English 'fleax'. Linen is the term applied to the cloth or fabric woven from this yarn. The linen textile is known for its strength, durability, lightweight nature and breathability. The flax fiber is stronger than cotton but less elastic. Besides textiles the fiber is also used to make twine, rope and paper.

Cotton

Cotton fibers are obtained from cotton plants specifically from the outer layer of the seeds that is seed coat. The word cotton is derived from Arabic and is pronounced kutan, qutun etc. It is classified as natural, linear, cellulosic soft and staple fiber. They look like a twisted ribbon or tube under a microscope. The varieties of cotton grown worldwide include Gossypium hirsutun, Gossypium barbadense, Gossypium arboreum, Gossypium herbaceum. About 60% of the world's total cotton harvest is utilized to produce clothing and rest in home furnishings, medical supplies and industrial products.

Characteristics of cotton: The cotton fiber range in diameter from 11μm t0 22 μm and such very fine fibers allows the manufacture of light weight and fine cotton fabrics and garment despite the fact of being a dense and heavy fiber.

The cotton fiber is relatively inelastic in nature because of its crystalline polymer system and therefore the cotton textiles wrinkle and crease easily.

The cotton fibers are very absorbent in nature due to polar -OH groups in its polymers, these attract water molecules which are also polar.

Cotton fibers have the ability to conduct heat energy and hence can withstand hot ironing temperatures.

Cotton fibers are relatively easy fibers to dye and print.

Manufacturing Process of Cotton Fibers:

Harvesting-involves collecting the mature cotton bolls from the plant using machine or by hand.

Ginning- is the process in which cotton fibers are separated from cotton seeds.

Spinning-twist the cotton fibers together into a long apparently continuous thread.

Weaving-making yarn to fabric.

Knitting-another method of turning yarn to fabric.

Cotton lint are the shorter fibers that remains attached to the seeds after longer fibers have been extracted. Cotton lint is spun and then woven or knitted into fabrics such as velvet, corduroy, chambray, velour, jersey and flannel. Cotton fibers can be used to create endless different fabric varieties, including blend with other natural fibers like wool and also with synthetic fibers like polyester.

Hemp

Hemp fiber refers to the bast fibers (long and flexible fibers found in the outer surface of the stem) of the hemp plant that is Cannabis Sativa. It is fine, light-colored, shiny and strong fiber which is similar to jute. Hemp fibers are used in textiles for clothing, furnishings, paper, rope, building material, garden, animal bedding etc.

Hemp is more durable and stronger than cotton. It is elastic and hence provide good tensile strength. It holds its shape and softens with each use and wash. Hemp fabric is naturally breathable, durable, absorbent, anti-microbial and anti-static. However, in pure form hemp fabric is rough and stiff and wrinkle easily so that it can be blended with other fibers like flax, cotton or even synthetic material like polyester.