Cuffs

Cuffs are strips of fabric bands which are attached to the end of a sleeve with straight or gathered or pleated patterns. It can be a separate sewn-on piece or a turned back extension of a sleeve. They can be in the same material or a contrasting one. The cuffs at the end are thicker than the rest of the sleeve and creates a frame for the wrists and fingers. The cuffs impart great importance to the sleeve, whatever the length and also protect the garment from fraying.

Cuffs are of two types:

Cuffs Without Plackets: Plackets are an opening or slit in a garment. This type of cuff is ideal for both long and short sleeves and are created big enough around for the arm to slip in and out easily without a cuff-and-placket opening.

Cuffs With Plackets: These types of cuffs are generally attached to a long sleeve and unlike the first type requires a cuff-and-placket opening fastened snugly around the wrist. Most popular cuffs of this style are Shirt cuff, Lapped cuff, French cuff Etc.

                             

Hobble Silhouette

Hobble women's skirt is rounded over hips and tapered to the ankle so narrowly that significantly impede the walking of the wearer. It was designed by Paul Poiret a Paris fashion designer in about 1912. The hobble dress is so narrow below the knees that it would 'hobble' or make the wearer walk in an awkward way.

Drawing Up The Lower Thread

The lower thread should be pulled up by lowering the needle before starting sewing.

Lightly hold the end of the upper thread and then slowly turn the handwheel towards your direction (counterclockwise) by hand to lower and then raise the needle.

Pull on the upper thread to draw up the lower thread.

Finally pull out about 4 inches or about 10 cm of both the upper and lower threads and put them toward the back of the machine under the presser foot.

(For some models with a quick-set bobbin, lightly hold down the bobbin with the help of the right hand, and then guide the thread through the two slits, pull the thread toward you and then cut it with the thread cutter at the end of the slit. Start sewing after threading the lower and upper thread).

Lower Threading

Lower threading involves installing the bobbin wound thread to the machine. The machine should be turned off during threading to avoid any accidents.

Before threading the lower thread prepare the bobbin so that it is wound properly and evenly.

Remove the bobbin cover on the machine by sliding it and lifting towards you.

Insert the bobbin 'in' so that the thread comes out in the direction shown by the arrow (comes out at the left side). Set the bobbin so that the thread unrolls in right direction shown by the arrow, otherwise it may cause incorrect thread tension or break the needle.

Holding the end of the thread, push the bobbin down with the help of the finger and then pass the thread through the slit.

Replace the bobbin cover, put the thread projection into the bobbin race retainer grove and push it closed (be sure that the end of the thread comes out from the cover towards the rare of the machine.

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Triangle Card Scale

A card scale is a small, flat triangle shaped scale with markings on it often used for tailoring, fashion design or general crafting purposes. These pocket-sized scales are generally used by the students for small drafting. It is made of thick laminated paper with centimeter marking on one side and inch marking on the other side. These scales are compact and easy to store and are designed to provide accurate measurements.

Duck Billed Hairclips

The duck billed hairclips are long, slim and multipurpose metal clips for holding sections of hair during cutting or hair styling. These versatile hairpins for women and girls can easily hold your hair during hair cutting, hair styling, blow drying, hair coloring, facial cleansing, make up and are also great for professional salons. Measuring about 9 cm these clips are made of high-quality anodized aluminum and the unique convex shape, and no teeth design prevents scratches or cuts, making them lightweight and robust DIY hair accessory.

Double Chain Stitch

Double Chain Stitch is also called as Turkmen Stitch and is done by working the stitches across two parallel lines. It is a variation of chain stitch where each chain is pulled into alternating triangles.

Bring the needle up at 'a' go back down at 'b' and come up at 'c', placing the needle's point over the thread and pull through.

Next, go back down at 'a' and come up at 'd', placing needle's point over thread and pulling thread through.

Go back down at 'c' and come up at 'e', continue alternating the stitches from top to bottom edges till the end of the row.

Double Chain Stitch Back

Set Square

A set square is a triangle shaped tool with marked angles. It gives true right-angles. A set square is useful for drawing lines at right-angles and for finding the bias grain (Any grain or line that falls between the straight and cross grain of a fabric).

Trumpet Silhouette

The Trumpet Silhouette describes the garment that flares out at the bottom, usually starting at knees. This style was worn in 1930's as tight-fitting dress to knees and reintroduced in early 1980's as evening gown with full length and flounce. The silhouette is so called because it flares at the hem and the shape is like that of the musical instrument the 'trumpet'.

Rangoli

 

Winding The Bobbin

Insert a spool of thread on the spool pin. In some models one should pull up the spool pin.

Holding the thread from the spool with the help of right hand, pass the thread in the grove on the thread guide towards your direction.

Next, pass the thread around the pre-tension disc and pull the thread in completely.

Pass the end of the thread through the hole on the bobbin from the inside of the bobbin.

Insert the bobbin onto bobbin winder shaft and slide the bobbin winder shaft to the right. Turn the bobbin by hand in clockwise direction until the projection slides into bobbin notch. Make sure to keep about 3-4 inches of thread from the hole of the bobbin.

Turn the machine on. While holding the end of the thread, gently press the foot controller to wind the thread around the bobbin a few times.

Stop the machine and trim the excess thread above the bobbin (leave about 1cm of thread from bobbin hole).

Press the foot controller again to start.  When the bobbin becomes full it begins to spin slowly.

Take your foot out of foot controller, cut the thread, slide the bobbin winder shaft to the left and remove the bobbin.

Peaked Lapel

A peaked lapel as the name implies forms a 'peak' at the edge of the lapel that is with V-shaped ending at the lapel and the collar fitting into it. It is used in double breasted jackets and in both suits and tuxedos.

Notched Lapel

Notched lapel is one of the most common types of lapels used in everyday fashion. In notched lapel the collar and lapel are cut slanted thereby creating a notch that is it forms a v-like indentation sideways below the collar. This lapel is most commonly seen in formal suits.

The Magic Braid Clip

The magic braid clip is the bun maker accessories for women and girls to create professional bun in seconds. It is lightweight and reusable. It is also easy and convenient to carry and use.

To use it: Put the hairs into the curler, from the bottom, clamp and roll the hair upwards.

Roll up until all of the hair is twisted with the clip.

Hook the two hooks together and finish.

L Shaped Lapel

An L shaped lapel is the one with the lapel cut straight across a narrow-rounded collar.

Fishmouth Lapel

The Fishmouth lapel is the one with lapel cut slanted resembling the mouth of a fish where the collar and lapel meet.

String Bow

A string is a thick thread or cord made by twisting very thin threads together and it is used for tying and fastening things. The bow tied using a string act as a decorative element for hoodie, shoes, kurta slits etc. It is also used as gift ties on packages.

Cloverleaf Lapel

The cloverleaf lapel is a unique lapel where both collar and the lapel are rounded where they meet resembling the leaves of a clover plant!

Lapels

A lapel is the turned-back front section of a jacket, coat or blouse where it joins the collar. Each side folds back to form Revers (lapel). The lapels serve as a decorative element of the suit. The lapels are classified into different types based on the shape of the point where the collar and the lapel meet.

1. Stand

2. Fall

3. Roll line

4. Lapel (Revers)

5. Break line

Ribbon Bow

A ribbon is a narrow fabric strip that can be used to tie things. A ribbon bow is a decorative knot tied using the ribbon. The ribbon bows are great embellishment for gift wrapping, flower bouquets, sewing projects, hair bands, dresses and so on. They are also used as a decoration on various occasions.

Threaded Running Stitch

The Threaded Running Stitch is a hand embroidery stitch that is a decorative variation of the Running Stitch. First create a line of closely and equally spaced running stitch. Then in the second pass (effective when a different color thread is used) slide the needle up and down through the line of running stitch, without piercing the fabric till the end. Finish off on the wrong side of the fabric. This stitch differs from Whipped Running Stitch where the needle is slided through each running stitch in one direction only.

Double Running Steps

Double running steps are stepped stitches that are created in two passes. Vertical running stitches fill the gaps between the horizontal stitches in the second pass. The stitches are placed at perfect right angles to each other and must be of equal length.