Thursday, June 29, 2023

Notcher

The notcher is a common precision tool with a cutting blade that slips into the edge of the pattern, leaving about 1/4 -inch U shape cut-out (notch). The notches are then marked on the fabric and the cutter slashes the fabric at these points. Finally, the garment parts are assembled and stitched following the notches. The notcher is made of good quality metal for long performance and consists of spring action handle.

The notches in the pattern is used to indicate seam allowances, centre lines, identifying face up or down of the fabric, align pattern pieces, dart intake, extended shoulder tip, zipper stopping point, fold back of facings and hem, insert placement, tension release in acute curves, inverted corners etc., thus acting as an instruction guide for seamstress sewing the pattern.

                                                a and b notches

Tuesday, June 20, 2023

V-Line Silhouette

The V-line silhouette or style is characterized by broad shoulders tapering towards the bottom (at the hem) without any emphasis on the waist.



                  

Friday, June 16, 2023

Pierrot Collar

The pierrot collar is a small round collar made of ruffs (cloth frills) or double ruffle. This collar is derived from the costume of the comedy character in French theaters called pierrot (little peter).



Wednesday, June 7, 2023

Overhand Stitch

The overhand stitches are tiny, even stitches widely used to hold together two finished edges (for example, these are very useful for attaching a ribbon or lace to the finished edge of the garment).

The needle is inserted from the back edge through to the front edge diagonally, picking up only one thread each time. Every time diagonal stitches are taken over the edge maintaining the uniform spacing.     


  
                                                                                                                                    

Wednesday, May 3, 2023

Sailor's Collar

The sailor's collar is a flap collar which is recognized by its wide lapels forming a V shape in front and with square panel at the back. Traditionally it is used on sailor's uniform. A typical one has two bands of soutache braid sewn around the edges and having two stars at the back corners. It is also called Middy collar and became a popular style for middy dresses and children's dress



Wednesday, April 26, 2023

Puritan Collar

The Puritan collar consists of square-cut, wide and flat flaps in the front and back that extends to the shoulder seam. This collar is derived from English protestants of late sixteenth and seventeenth century. The early Englishmen carried the collar to America where it was identified with the Puritans and early Americans. This style is often seen in dresses and blouses.