The bertha collar resembles a cape or cloak falling over shoulders and bodice of the dress. This collar is usually round and flat encircling the décolleté. The bertha collar is made of thin fabrics (not appropriate for heavy fabrics as the collar is bulky). The collar became fashion in 1930's and became increasingly popular during 1980's.
The L-line or column silhouette is a fine gown that best fits a thin or slender body. The dress belonging to this group or silhouette has same measurement for bust, waist and hem and hence appears rectangle in shape. A shift dress belongs to this silhouette flows straight down the body in one straight line (without any flare) and conceal the body shape. This silhouette is also ideal for a person with thick waist and broad hips as it helps to hide these flaws very easily. This silhouette is made with well drape able light fabrics.
The notcher is a common precision tool with a cutting blade that slips into the edge of the pattern, leaving about 1/4 -inch U shape cut-out (notch). The notches are then marked on the fabric and the cutter slashes the fabric at these points. Finally, the garment parts are assembled and stitched following the notches. The notcher is made of good quality metal for long performance and consists of spring action handle.
The notches in the pattern is used to indicate seam allowances, centre lines, identifying face up or down of the fabric, align pattern pieces, dart intake, extended shoulder tip, zipper stopping point, fold back of facings and hem, insert placement, tension release in acute curves, inverted corners etc., thus acting as an instruction guide for seamstress sewing the pattern.
The V-line silhouette or style is characterized by broad shoulders tapering towards the bottom (at the hem) without any emphasis on the waist.
The pierrot collar is a small round collar made of ruffs (cloth frills) or double ruffle. This collar is derived from the costume of the comedy character in French theaters called pierrot (little peter).
The overhand stitches are tiny, even stitches widely used to hold together two finished edges (for example, these are very useful for attaching a ribbon or lace to the finished edge of the garment).
The needle is inserted from the back edge through to the front edge diagonally, picking up only one thread each time. Every time diagonal stitches are taken over the edge maintaining the uniform spacing.
